‘Every Culinary Artist Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.
When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.
A Unexpected Accolade
The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.
“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Surpassing the Stars
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
The Ethos of Heart
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the People
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.